Riesling Schloss Lieser Estate Spätlese Trocken Rheingau 2016 750ml
Via a bit of verbal trickery (or, one could say, thanks to a lucky accident), Thomas Haag remains able to bottle a second dry wine – i.e., in addition to the relevant Grosses Gewachs – that is sourced from and labeled to refer to the Einzellage Niederberg Helden. (Two dry wines expressly labeled “Niederberg Helden” would violate the letter of VDP regulations.) A reductive, fermentative veil largely parts with aeration to reveal scents of apple, white peach, lime and grapefruit. Things really pick up on the polished palate, with vivaciously bright primary juiciness invigoratingly tinged with piquancy of citrus peel, fruit seeds and pits. Alkaline and stony inflections lend intrigue to a superbly sustained, cheek-pinching, consummately refreshing finish.